We have a lot of cookbooks; it’s a side effect of blogging.  When I reach onto the cookbook shelf, it is clear that some of the cookbooks are well-used and some have hardly been open. Some are falling apart, and some look brand new. Here’s a list of the five most worn, most loved vegetarian cookbooks in my kitchen.

No, it isn’t the esoteric, limited-audience work the title page suggests; it’s one of the most important cookbooks in years. The American-born Devi, who as the disciple and personal cook of an Indian spiritual leader spent eight years off and on travelling with him in India and elsewhere, has assembled about 500 detailed, carefully written recipes representing the vast range of Indian cooking styles. They provide excellent, workable versions of – among much else – Indian pancakes, flitters, dumplings, breads, cheese and yogurt dishes, and sweets and pastries. (American vegetarians should note that the recipes use no eggs.) Only a real hater of Indian flavors could fail to come away with ideas almost begging to be adopted in everyday use – say, spicy creamed spinach. There are attractive experiments with American ingredients like maple syrup and jicama as well as the dozens that must be sought in Indian stores. But the recipes pale in interest beside the vast amounts of information on ingredients, techniques, equipment, and critical culinary indefinables.